Hi, it’s Nienke again, with another tutorial on pockets! After my posts on how to add front pockets and how to add inseam pockets, I’m here today with a tutorial on how to sew patch pockets. Patch pockets are pockets that are not really integrated in a pattern piece, but sewn on. This has the advantage that they can be placed anywhere and are a versatile design element.
How to Sew Patch Pockets on Any Pattern
To show you how to add patch pockets, I used Amy’s new and FREE Pajama Party Pants pattern. I was a tester on this one and it’s such a quick and easy sew, with a cute result. So I decided to make one for my toddler in Christmas colors, red and white.
Patch Pockets Step 1: First of all, you need a pattern piece for the pocket. Draw the shape you want on a piece of paper. Then, add seam allowances. 1″ to the top edge, 5/8″ to all other edges. I drew the desired shape in black and the seam allowances in green on the picture above. Cut the pattern piece (with seam allowance) from your fabric and finish the side and lower edges with zigzag or serger.
Patch Pockets Step 2: Fold the top edge of the pocket 3/8″ towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press.
Patch Pockets Step 3: Then, fold the folded top edge another 5/8″ towards the RIGHT side of the fabric. Press again.
Patch Pockets Step 4: Stitch the folded piece along the side seam, so two seams of 5/8″ long each, with a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Patch Pockets Step 5: Turn your hem to the right side, making sure you push the corner out neatly. Press.
Patch Pockets Step 6: Topstitch along the edge of the hem you just created.
Patch Pockets Step 7: Press the other seam allowances towards the wrong side of the fabric.
Patch Pockets Step 8: Pin the pocket on the desired place.
Patch Pockets Step 9: Topstitch the pocket along the sides and bottom, 1/8″ from the edge.
Patch Pockets Step 10: Make sure you pivot neatly at the corners. This means you put the needle down into the fabric where you want to make a corner. Then, you lift your presser foot, turn the fabric in the right direction and lower your presser foot again. This makes for nice and sharp corners.
Patch Pockets Step 11: To make sure the pocket doesn’t tear when being used, I like to reinforce the topstitching at the top corners by sewing a triangle and heavily backstitching.
Give a last press and continue sewing your garment as usual.
Are there any other types of pockets you’d like to learn about? I’d love to hear from you!