Today the focus will be on our little ladies! The Classic Panties are super fast and fun! However, if you have a directional fabric, then you’ll need a simple modification to make sure that the print on the back isn’t upside down!
Start by grabbing your pattern pieces.
Lay the lining piece on top of the main piece. Mark where the lining hits on the back part of the main pattern piece. Cut your main pattern piece along that line. You will need to add seam allowances to both sides, so I like to make that note on my pattern pieces to remind me when I’m cutting my fabric. You can also trace the pieces onto freezer paper and add the seam allowance to create a full new pattern piece.
When you lay your pattern pieces on your fabric, make sure that they are oriented in the same direction so that your print will be right side up for the front and back of the undies!
I also needed to add an extra 1/2″ seam allowance to the back of the lining piece (the back part is the side that is closest to the “cut on fold” marking on the lining pattern piece).
With right sides together, lay the back on top of the front piece and sew along the new cut line. Now you will have one main piece.
When I make panties with directional fabric, I always add a lining to the undies. This ensures that the new seam allowance won’t rub or be uncomfortable. I matched the back lining edge with the new seam I created when sewing the front and back together. The right side of the lining needs to be against the wrong side of the main fabric. Sew the back of the lining to that seam allowance. Flip the lining down so it lays at the bottom of the underwear and topstitch in place according to the pattern. Now the seam allowance from the previous step will be enclosed. You can continue sewing up the sides and adding the bands as the pattern instructs.
Let’s take a quick look at the camisole.
You can see that I added a design to the front to jazz it up a bit! If you’re adding heat transfer vinyl (HTV), embroidery or fabric paint, I suggest doing this before constructing the whole camisole. That way, if you goof, your camisole won’t be completely ruined!
When constructing the camisole, I highly recommend the Wash Away Wonder Tape. The binding and bands are small and hard to pin. I used the Wonder Tape along the front and back bindings and especially when sewing the arm bands. Follow the pattern directions to attach the binding/bands to the wrong side of the camisole. Then apply the wash away tape to the seam allowance and around the circumference of the arm band. Refold the arm band along the lines you ironed and the tape will be in the middle. Now you can topstitch without a lot of awkward pins and clips!
Tomorrow I will show you a simple modification on turning the undies into trainers!