Hi, it’s Nienke again, with another tutorial on pockets! After my posts on how to add front pockets and how to add inseam pockets, I’m here today with a tutorial on how to add patch pockets. Patch pockets are pockets that are not really integrated in a pattern piece, but sewn on. This has the advantage that they can be placed anywhere and are a versatile design element.
To show you how to do this, I used Amy’s new and FREE Pajama Party Pants pattern. I was a tester on this one and it’s such a quick and easy sew, with a cute result. So I decided to make one for my toddler in Christmas colours, red and white.
First of all, you need a pattern piece for the pocket. Draw the shape you want on a piece of paper. Then, add seam allowances. 1″ to the top edge, 5/8″ to all other edges. I drew the desired shape in black and the seam allowances in green on the picture above. Cut the pattern piece (with seam allowance) from your fabric and finish the side and lower edges with zigzag or serger.
Fold the top edge of the pocket 3/8″ towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press.
Then, fold the folded top edge another 5/8″ towards the RIGHT side of the fabric. Press again.
Stitch the folded piece along the side seam, so two seams of 5/8″ long each, with a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Turn your hem to the right side, making sure you push the corner out neatly. Press.
Topstitch along the edge of the hem you just created.
Press the other seam allowances towards the wrong side of the fabric.
Pin the pocket on the desired place.
Topstitch the pocket along the sides and bottom, 1/8″ from the edge.
Make sure you pivot neatly at the corners. This means you put the needle down into the fabric where you want to make a corner. Then, you lift your presser foot, turn the fabric in the right direction and lower your presser foot again. This makes for nice and sharp corners.
To make sure the pocket doesn’t tear when being used, I like to reinforce the topstitching at the top corners by sewing a triangle and heavily backstitching.
Give a last press and continue sewing your garment as usual.
Are there any other types of pockets you’d like to learn about? I’d love to hear from you!
