For the front pieces you have 2 left and 2 right in your outer fabric so you’ll want to add the insulation layer to 1 left and 1 right front piece. And yes I used multiple colors of green fleece for my insulation 🙂 Great way to use up scraps!
The only change you need to make is to carefully trim your seam allowances so they aren’t too bulky. I left the flannel with a 1/2″ seam allowance but then trimmed the fleece down to 1/8-1/4″.
Moving on 🙂
For the collar I trimmed with pinking shears instead of notching which is a nice short-cut that still gives good results.
Now it’s time to set those sleeves! Set-in sleeves are a tiny bit trickier but you will love the results. The finished sleeve lays so nicely! So go ahead and sew step 2.
I sewed a 2t and I was able to ease my sleeves in without any gathering stitches but if you’re completely new to this you might find it helpful.
When you sew the sleeves in you can slip the whole sleeve over the sewing machine if you’re making a bigger size. In the smaller sizes I find it helpful to sew things together with my presser foot inside the sleeve. I go nice and slow and stop every inch or so to make sure the fabric is laying nice and smoothly on both layers.
Finished! Not so bad right? Now go and do it again with your lining 🙂
And now you can be proud of that beautiful underarm seam 🙂
Come back tomorrow for top-stitching and buttons!
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Amy
Owner at Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop
Amy is the founder and owner of Peek-a-Boo Pattern shop. She is a wife and mother to 3 children. Amy loves to sew, read and spend time outdoors.
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Can the sleeve be put in flat rather than set in? (I mean sewing on the sleeve, then sewing from cuff to body hem in one seam) Would it make a difference in anything to do it that way?
I don’t have time to sew along this week, but am planning to make pea coats for my boys before the snow flies!
Definitely 🙂 I prefer set-in but it will still work
I think I figured it out! The pictures confused me so I just read the instructions a few times through and I think I’ve got it.
You just sew the outer sleeves into the outer coat and then your sleeve linings into the lining and then you’ll sew the 2 coats together 🙂 Sounds like you got it figured out but if not let me know
I think I am confused already. Is the picture of the set in sleeve a different coat? I can’t see any lining. So do I just sandwich everything and then sew up like I would normally?
Oooo, I hope I win this time!