Olivia and Oliver Pea Coat Sew Along Day 1

Welcome to day 1 of the Olivia and Oliver Pea Coat Sew Along!

If you don’t have your pattern yet you can purchase it here
First things first…
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Today we’re going to cover Printing, Choosing Your Fabric, Choosing Your Size and Cutting
Printing
Patterns should always be printed at 100% scale. Make sure you check the 1″ scale box after you print to ensure your pattern printed correctly
Choosing Your Fabric
A BIG thank you to The Ribbon Retreat for sponsoring the sew along!
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For my coat I used a Moda Denim for the outer layer, a flannel lining, and fleece from my stash to add an extra layer of warmth in the middle. This coat sews up really well in a wide variety of fabrics. Personally I love a nice bottom-weight (denim, twill, corduroy, etc.) for the outside to give it some structure and something soft and warm for the inside. If you are adding an extra layer in the middle fleece is a great choice for added warmth. Make sure you read the sizing tips in the next section 🙂
Choosing Your Size
The best way to get a good fit with any garment is to do a little preparation! So go grab a coat that you love the fit of on your child so you can take some measurements and compare to the size chart. You’ll also want to measure your child’s chest. So take a look at the chart and get a good feel for what size you need….
And now a few other factors to consider:
  • Prefer looser fitting coats? This allows enough room to layer over long sleeves or lightweight sweaters but anything bulkier than that and you will want to size up. Another great trick is to just add 1/2″ to the inseam of the sleeve and the side seams of the jacket. This will give you extra room without impacting the rest of the fit.
  • Are you adding an extra layer? For my coat I had 3 layers instead of 2 (denim, fleece and flannel). Due to the bulk of the extra layer I made Will the 2T instead of the 18 mos. He’s just starting to wear 2T in ready-to-wear so I still ended up with a fairly fitted coat which is what I wanted. If I was planning on him wearing it for 2 years I would’ve added the extra 1/2″ to my side seams and sleeve inseams (see prior question)
  • Do you want to wear it for 2 years? This coat looks super cute with cuffed sleeves so if you want to get extra wear out of it I recommend adding 2″ to your sleeve length and wearing them cuffed for the 1st year. In the photo on the left Anne is around 20 mos. and wearing the 2t with cuffed sleeves. On the right she’s 3 and still wearing the same coat! She’s on the slim side and this coat was just corduroy and flannel so she easily fit in the 2t for two years.

 

  • Still not sure? If in doubt always go with the larger size. Kids grow fast 🙂 Sleeve lengths and coat length is especially easy to alter partway through the sewing process so it’s always better to add a little length and chop off later rather than have it come up shorter than you’d like it to.

Cutting Your Fabric
Lay out all of your fabric before you start cutting to make sure you get it all to fit. With the outer layer the yardage requirements don’t have a lot of wiggle room 🙂 As noted in the pattern if you are using a directional print you might need a little extra fabric. 
Since this coat has lapels that fold over you will cut 4 front pieces from your outer fabric so don’t let that throw you. You really do need 2 left and 2 right front pieces in the outer fabric. In the lining you won’t have any front pieces 🙂 
If you are adding a middle layer for insulation: 
Cut 1 back on the fold, cut 1 left and 1 right front, cut 2 sleeves, and if you’re using fleece cut 1 collar. I didn’t add the fleece to my collar and I wish I had so it matched the finished weight of the lapels
Tomorrow we start sewing!

3 Responses

  1. Just printed out the pattern and have my fabric! So I guess I’m doing this. I’m going to have to grade up for my 10 year old, but I’m not too worried about that, I’ve done it enough times before. Thanks for the motivation to finally get to making this awesome jacket!

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